When you upgrade to a synthetic turf surface, old thought patterns and maintenance concerns must be discarded. In particular, the notion that a surface must "rest"--that the use of the surface must be curtailed to extend product life and preserve optimum playing characteristics--is no longer applicable. Synthetic turf surfaces are designed for constant use; the more the better.

However, because your surface is such a "big ticket item", these installation guidelines must be followed to maximize your investment.

This guide outlines the recommended installation process as well as simple care and maintenance information. Sand and/or rubber-filled turf is not more difficult to care for than conventional turf but is certainly less intensive than maintenance on natural grass systems. But procedures for installing synthetic turf that require an infill differ from those employed on conventional synthetic turf and a proper installation will significantly enhance the aging, usefulness and aesthetics of your synthetic turf system.

INITIAL (POST INSTALLATION) REQUIREMENTS

After the initial installation, synthetic turf surfaces require a minimum two (2) week curing and fiber stabilization period. This is even more critical with conventional turf systems. Athletic events may be held during this period but we recommend that all heavy equipment and unnecessary vehicle traffic be kept of the synthetic turf surfaces. Also, during this period, vacuum sweeping should be kept to a minimum and should never be performed during the heat of the day.

In addition, sand and/or rubber-filled systems, unlike conventional systems, require many weeks of use and weathering to reach optimum condition. This time not only allows a degree of fiber fibrillation as on all synthetic turf fields, it also allows the granular fill to settle properly to its best level for ideal comfort, playability and longevity of the system. This period of time varies, depending on local conditions, use, and system specifications.

Please realize that a properly filled field will initially exhibit inconsistent levels of fill! Keep dragging/ brushing the synthetic turf surface. Depending on weather and use patterns, this should take about one (1) month. A second top dressing of materials is likely to bring the field to proper level.

Please distribute this manual to those responsible for the installation of your synthetic turf surface and see that they are thoroughly familiar with its contents. You should also review the Warranty provided with the turf system for specific prohibitions and limitations contained therein.

THE TURF OUTLET MAKES NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES REGARDING THE INSTALLATION INFORMATION NOR ARE ANY RESULTS GUARANTEED BY UTILIZING THE INSTALLATION INFORMATION. THIS INFORMATION IS NOT INTENDED TO INCLUDE ALL INFORMATION THAT MAY BE NEEDED TO INSTALL SYNTHETIC TURF SURFACES.

TOOLS NEEDED (found at most local hardware or home improvement stores)

  1. Hand roller or plate tamp (outdoor installation)
  2. Crushed stone (outdoor installation)
  3. Seam scrim or tape
  4. Commercial-grade adhesive
  5. Chalk-line or spray paint
  6. Industrial broom or power-broom (in-fill installation)
  7. Silica sand and/or granulated rubber (in-fill installation)
  8. Drop spreader (in-fill installation)
  9. Landscape spikes or nailer board (outdoor installation)

PLANNING

  1. The area for turf installation should be clearly defined and marked, if necessary.
  2. In this planning stage, it should be noted which direction the turf rolls will be laid out.
  3. Always run the grain of the turf against any slope, if possible
  4. Also, note the borders of the turf and determine which edging or curbing technique will be used.

AREA PRESENTATION

  1. Remove all grasses, sods, mulches, etc. from the marked area.
  2. Sprinklers may be capped or removed at this time.
  3. If you are landscaping around trees, shrubbery, flowers, light poles, utilities, etc.,
    remember to mark around those areas and account for the turf edge configuration.
  4. Remember to leave ample area uncovered around the bases of trees .

SOIL COMPACTION

  1. It may be necessary to compact the native soil / sub grade prior to base construction with a hand roller or plate tamp.
  2. In the case where the native soils are soft and/or saturated, it is advisable to install a geotextile to separate the soft soils from the crushed stone base. Mirafi 140N or equal should suffice.
  3. As a rule of thumb, if there is standing water, or if water comes to the surface under foot, a geotextile should be used. If applicable, consult the engineer, architect or quarryman of record.

BASE CONSTRUCTION

  1. A crushed stone base layered should be spread evenly over the prepared area.
  2. If using heavy equipment to do so, the equipment should not drive directly upon the prepared site.
  3. The crushed stone should be a D.O.T. Class 2 aggregate, with maximum particle size of three-fourths of an inch (¾"), or approved equal. Class 2 aggregate is available in most areas.
  4. The crushed stone should be spread evenly, as smoothly as possible, and compacted to ninety percent (90%) proctor. A vibratory compactor will suffice on most small projects. A roller compactor may be necessary.
  5. The depth of this base course should be determined by the engineer, architect or quarryman of record. As a rule of thumb, in arid climates such as Las Vegas, Phoenix or San Diego, two (2) inches of base course material is sufficient. In climates with more rainfall or a higher water table, such as Seattle, New Orleans, or Houston, six (6) inches may be necessary. The standard is four (4) inches of base course material for synthetic turf surfaces.

LEVELING LAYER

  1. If the base course layer is not as smooth as desired, or there are undesired undulations, it may be necessary to add a layer of fines (stone dust, screenings, manufactured sand, etc.) to fill in the low spots or create a smooth surface. This layer should be kept to a minimum , preferably no more than two (2) inches. This layer must be compacted with a heavy roller. Do not use a vibratory compactor.

TURF LAYING

  1. Roll the synthetic turf surface out on top of your constructed based, as planned. If the site requires multiple roll widths, be sure to have the grain of the fibers on each roll of turf running in the same direction.
  2. If seaming is required (multiple roll widths), trim the selvedge (un-tufted edge) off of one roll and lay it on the base, in the desired position.
  3. Lay the next roll adjacent to the first and overlap one edge of the adjacent roll of turf on top of the trimmed edge of the first roll.
  4. With scissors or razor knife, trim the overlapped roll to match the trimmed edge of the first roll.
  5. Make all cuts as close as possible without touching.
  6. Repeat as needed for as many roll widths as the job requires.
  7. Around the borders, trim the turf to match the edges.
  8. If a secured or fastened edge is desired, do not secure the edge until most of the infill is installed.

SEAMING

  1. Fold the adjacent trimmed edges of two rolls of turf approximately two feet apart the entire length of the seam.
  2. Mark the centerline of the seam on the exposed base with a chalk line or spray paint.
  3. Roll out seam scrim or tape centered over the entire length of the seam line. Apply adhesive covering all of the seam tape from one end to the other. Depending on the type of adhesive used, you may need to allow time for vapors / gases to escape (flashing). Refer to the adhesive manufacturer's directions. The flashing time required may be dependent on ambient temperature and humidity.
  4. After adhesive has flashed, lay the edges of each roll of turf directly onto the adhesive/tape, making sure not to bury any grass fibers into the adhesive.
  5. Be sure to add weight (i.e. sandbags) down the length of the freshly laid seam, or use a heavy roller along the seam length. The adhesive drying / curing time will vary with different adhesives dependent upon climatic conditions.
  6. It is important to use a high quality, outdoor adhesive to prevent delaminating later. Follow the adhesive manufacturer's instructions.

INFILL INSTALLATION

  1. In synthetic lawn applications, a drop spreader (commonly used to spread grass seed, fertilizer, lime, etc.) should be used to spread the infill in lifts ranging from to no greater than half and inch (½") depths. In between the spreading of lifts or layers, the fibers should be brushed upright with a plastic bristle industrial broom or a power-broom. This keeps all of the grass fibers erect and exposed. Fibers trapped underneath the infill may not ever be recovered.
  2. Do not use stiff steel bristle brooms that can damage the fiber.
  3. Be sure not to pour the infill in large quantities on the synthetic turf. It is easier to work the fill in with smaller quantity sizes placed in the turf.
  4. If the borders or edges are to be secured, save the infill installation for these areas for last.
  5. Repeat the infill spread / fiber brooming process until the infill is evenly spread such that no more than three-fourths of an inch (¾") of grass fiber tips are exposed above the level of the infill. A good rule of thumb is two (2) to two and a half (2½) pounds per square foot.
  6. Caution: Too much fiber exposed (not enough infill) will cause the fibers to mat or crush with heavy foot traffic. This will lead to premature wearing of the fiber and will void the manufacturer's warranty.
  7. There may be more than one type of infill used on the same site. In many cases, a combination of silica sand and granulated rubber, or silica sand and manufactured sand top dressing, may be used in layers. In either case, the silica sand is installed first, followed by the granulated rubber or top dressing.
  8. Be sure to follow the site specifications outlining the amount or depth of each infill material.

SECURE EDGES

  1. In many cases, securing the edges or borders is not necessary and an optional installation activity. The weight of the infill alone is enough to keep the turf in intimate contact with the base.
  2. If an exposed edge is a concern (because of a curious animal, high activity at the border, etc.), the edges can be secured in a number of ways:
    • Landscape spikes.
      Simply hammer landscape spikes, timber spikes, sod staples, etc. into the edge at desired intervals. Afterwards, more edge trimming may be necessary.
    • Nailer Board.
      When installed next to a concrete or asphalt curb, a nailer board / synthetic lumber can be installed (preferably in NUMERAL II, AREA PREPERATION) by nailing the board to the curb with concrete nails. The turf can then be nailed into the top of the installed nailer board with a landscape nail. Afterward, more edge trimming of the turf may be necessary.
    • Buried Edges.
      Excavate a narrow trench around the border, deep enough to bury the exposed edge of the turf. Tuck the turf's edge into the trench (additional trimming of excess turf may be necessary). Backfill the excavated soil against the buried turf, and compact. The edge can then be hidden with mulch, straw, rock, etc.

FINISH INFILL

  1. If a secured edge was installed, it will probably be necessary to add infill around the border. Use the technique described in INFILL INSTALLATION.

MAINTENANCE & CARE

  1. Rain is your best cleanser. Rainfall gently cleans the turf fibers of dust, pollen and airborne pollutants in way that is difficult to duplicate in any other fashion. In areas where rainfall is scarce--or during prolonged periods of drought--an occasional water flush is beneficial to soak and thus cleanse the turf system. This procedure is recommended for all turf systems.
  2. Most "stains" on polyolefin fields can be removed with water or soap and water. The first rule is promptness. It is much easier to clean up a fresh spill before it has time to dry and harden. Remove any solid or putty-like deposit promptly using a dull knife or spatula-like tool. Blot up excess liquids with a stack of towels, cloth or paper. Dry absorbent clay-based materials, such as cat litter absorbers ("kitty litter") can be very useful. Such dry absorbers can be swept or vacuumed up.
  3. Fill in "Hollow" spots. These are areas in the synthetic turf where the level of rubber may be slightly lower than the field overall. They are generally discovered over several weeks after the initial placement of rubber in the turf. These areas generally cannot be seen but can be "felt" when walking on the turf--they feel like depressions or low spots on the field.
  4. Cross brushing your filled synthetic turf is the single most effective way to keep it in top playing form. Brushing a filled turf field keeps the fill uniform and suitably embedded in the fibers rather than on the tips of the surface. "Cross brushing" means that all brushing activities, no matter what kind of equipment is used, takes place against the grain, nap or sweep of the turf fibers. (All synthetic turf is made with a slight grain.)

CONCLUSION

With the many advances in turf design, installation techniques and materials that have come to the market since 1989, synthetic turf surfaces are even less maintenance intensive than ever before. However, your synthetic turf will perform, look and feel better for a longer period of time if the maintenance procedures are followed closely.